Project 1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle - Super Project '71 Part Five: Super Beetle Brakes Rebuild

After some easy work, brake parts will begin to come off. To remove the shoe retaining springs, push in the cups and rotate the unit 90 degrees. With those out, the shoes fall out

Here is a closer shot of the lower portion of the backing plate. Removed is the adjust screws and the gear-shaped adjuster that fits into the anchor block (shown). The snake-looking piece is the parking brake cable. You don't need to do anything with it.

This is the pressure line as it connects to the back of the wheel cylinder. The threads above this line is the connection point for the cylinder to the backing plate.

Though this seems worn, the drum is actually just fine, though I know many thousands of miles have been driven on them. If you have any doubt (or don't have the means to properly measure it) take it to a professional.

Replacing the old wheel cylinder with a new one is as easy as bolting it to the backing plate. Even if the old cylinder seems fine, they don't cost too much, and it is safer to replace them while the wheel is apart. Torque to 18lbs.

This is where we stand so far. We've kept a brush handy to remove any brake dust that has accumulated on the new parts. As well, it is a good idea to give everything a fresh coat of paint, especially the outer surface of the drum.

Before replacing the shoes and pads, connect the parking brake lever to the shoe with the pivoting pin and clip. It's easier to connect it now rather than after you've attached it to the backing plate.

After the shoes have been replaced (with the retaining springs) attach the connecting link and upper and lower springs.

These are the adjusters screws as they plug into the anchor block. The gear teeth can be used to tighten the shoes closer to the drums from the rear of the backing plate so you don't have to remove the wheel and drum.

At the base of the right shoe is where the parking brake lever connects to the cable. It is as easy as slipping the cable over the lever.

This is the pressure hose that connects to the hard line through the tunnel (so they're not subject to damage). These hoses need to be replaced and it is as simple as unbolting the old ones and replacing them with the new lines (torqued to 11 to 14 ft-lbs.).

The hard lines are secured via clips to the frame. These keeps them from excess movement at their connection point to the hoses.

The hard lines are connected to the soft hoses in the rear at this point.

Nice clean new hoses attached to an old body part. However after a bleeding, the system is done and complete.

Replace the drums, roller bearing and nut. Put the wheels back on and lower the car. Torque the castellated nut to 253ft-lbs. and the wheel nuts to 95. Make sure you do these torques when the car is on the ground, as there is enough force to push the car off the jack stands. Install a new cotter pin and prepare to bleed.