Finally, we can honestly say that the Super Beetle is done. We've included all of the parts that we can find that will fit on our Super Project '71 and we've tried to cover each step in as much detail as these pages will allow. Although we could have easily filled each of the 18 issues that this series covered with the details of this project, we were forced to show you the important elements of the project and leave some of the mundane to your imagination, your innovation and your resourcefulness. Judging by the nearly 1200 emails and letters we received over the last 18 months, telling us that we did a great job covering the various aspects of this buildup, we are fairly confident that we've done something right.

Basically, there are no two ways about this: You can't install the fresh air fan and vent ducting system without installing the fuel tank and the evaporative emissions control system at the same time. There are a couple of steps that dovetail between the two installations and it all takes place in the close confines of the trunk. In addition to that, make sure all of your knobs are in place and that you've installed the dash-mounted ashtray. After the fact, it is nearly impossible. Not surprisingly, there isn't a wealth of information regarding the evaporative emission control system on the 1970 and later Beetles, except for the general explanation in the Bentley book and a short how-to about fixing a fuel leak at www.superbeetlesonly.com. Other than that, you're really on your own, and hopefully you took a bunch of before pictures when you tore your Super down to a shell. You didn't? Oh, well, don't worry because we did.

So you're at home minding your own business when a package arrives at your doorstep. Inside is what you've been waiting for, but upon opening the box, you immediately faint from fear. What did you see, nothing but a complicated, confusing, confounding collection of copper, connections and colored wires. Pulling out the bag, the now uncoiling mess on your workbench equals 392 feet of wires that all have to go into you car. Like baby snakes, there are 101 wires of various colors with 214 spade connections, and that means there are 21,614 possible ways to install a wiring harness...but only one right way. But don't worry, we'll help you sort through the mess and find that one right way. Granted, it isn't easy, but with patience and a clear head, you can do it and it should only take you the better part of the weekend.

Having a painted car back and finished in your garage is a great feeling and it is a turning point in the project, a milestone to signify the peak of the struggle to make this Super Beetle into a beautiful, yet functional, road-worthy Volkswagen. As far as the project is concerned, it is all downhill from here, albeit, not easy, but more rewarding.

There are a couple of things that most people don't want to do to their cars, such as transmission rebuild, paint and body. Surely towards the top of this list is the headliner, as there's some myth that it is the one of the most difficult job in any restoration. Now, granted, it is difficult, but not impossible for someone at home to tackle themselves. There's really no special tools needed or any classroom-learned skilled necessary--although experience certainly is on the side of Octavio Gutierrez, owner of Octavio's Kustom 1 Upholstery shop in Orange, Calif., a secret source of not only great custom and classic interiors but for overall restorations. For an example of his work, check out the feature of Santos Lagunas's 1963 23-Window Bus we showed you in the November 2003 issue of this magazine. Truly remarkable talent.

How do I paint a car is a looming question for most everyone reading this magazine. Since we were finally at that step in our project, we towed it down to Deuce Kustoms in Placentia, Calif., where we learned a few tips of the painting trade. The car in question is, of course, our favorite Super Beetle project car, ready to receive a new coat of Kansas Beige paint. But Ryan, you exclaim, we can't see the actual color of the car because these pages are black and white! Don't worry, you're not missing much, as Kansas Beige is as about an exciting color as regular beige. However, if you want to see the shiny stuff, check out this portion of our series on line at www.vwtrendsweb.com.

Contrary to popular belief, there really are people out there who actually like finished cars. There's a yet more radical bunch that prefers an even, consistent color and shine. Yeah I know it sounds strange, but it's true.

Finally, after a month longer than we planned, we reached the end of this mini project of building up the ancillary parts on a stock 1600 engine. Not surprising, but this is something that could have taken anyone with the right tools and the correct parts (ones that fit, we mean) no more than a full afternoon to complete. However, the industry being as it is, we ran into some problems with last-minute parts that we had to run out and buy. Not to worry, as we were able to make do with OE stuff.

If at any point in your restoration or buildup, you're interested in upgrading your wheels to something more than stock, you'll have to consider several factors in keeping the wheels under the fenders and from rubbing during a turn. To quote the Bentley Manual when it pertains to the front axle, "A change in any single element in the geometry necessarily leads to change in the whole system." This holds true to most anything you do to the front end, and by narrowing the beam to accommodate larger wheels and wider tires, you've altered the original intent of the design.

We've said it before and we'll say it again: Paint is like the final frontier for a lot of enthusiasts. They know it's there; they know how it got there; but they're not sure exactly what is there and why. When cars first came out over a 100 years ago, they were so unique that the color of the paint was least important--you could get any color Ford Model T you wanted as long as it was black. Paint was applied to car bodies for the sole purpose of rust and corrosion prevention. If it wasn't for oxidation, automobile paint may have never been developed into what it is today.

Finally, we're on the right road again, as our beloved Super Project '71 is safely in the hands of the trusted folks at Deuce Kustoms, a well respected auto restorer and customizer not only in the Volkswagen community (they just finished Clyde Berg's latest drag car) but also in the Hot Rod, custom trucks and classic car arenas. If you need it done, they can do it, and they can certainly handle a stock-color, no frills paint job on a mild resto Super Beetle.

There's one thing we hate at this magazine and that's rust, nature's way of returning everything to the basic elements of the universe: oxygen, hydrogen, carbon and iron. This combo would be just great if it wasn't for water, as iron would stay iron forever and our VWs would keep their shape until the end of time. Philosophically speaking, we only rent this life, and this is true for our possessions. That doesn't mean we can't preserve what is ours now for those that we give them to after we are gone.

Even though we're going to show you how to do it in a few months, building your own engine from a pile of parts--though completely possible for any first timer, of course isn't something to be taken lightly. There are specialized tools you'll need, a host of information to consider and a very long list of parts, parts for parts and a detailed schedule to maintain in order to do everything correctly. For a novice engine builder, the many boxes of parts that will arrive at your doorstep can be a bit overwhelming, especially if you're learning about what goes where for the first time. What we're going to show you today, however, is the easy alternative: Let someone else worry about all of the complicated insides, while you tackle assembling the ancillary items, like the carburetor, alternator, fan housing and engine tin. In the long run, you'll not only save yourself a bucket of money by not buying a turnkey engine, and instead, you'll learn that much more about what powers your Volkswagen.

Last time we left you we were forced to stop work on our engine prematurely because of the holidays, and we were waiting for a few parts to return from getting ceramic coated. Delays happen and we learned that being flexible with our time table is crucial to a smooth build up. Plus, since this 1600cc is scheduled to power the Super Project '71 that we're knee-deep into now, we've got plenty of time to do it right.

Produced between 1968 and 1979, Bay Window Westfalias are still plentiful in the United States. But let's face it... the last model came out of the German factory a quarter of a century ago; as a result some of the specific camper equipment can look rather shabby. Point in case, this 1977 Westy, purchased by our good friend Bill Schwimmer last fall. He located it in a local newspaper and paid a mere $600 for the non-running but rust-free vehicle. Besides the dents covering the green body, one cosmetic area that needed attention was the pop-top canvas. It literally fell apart!

We missed something, we know (now). It was pretty big but it escaped most all of us. In last installment of the rebuilding of our beloved Super Beetle, we proclaimed that we were finally ready for painting, and nobody who saw the car argued with us. This "Super Project '71, Part 10" was scheduled to show you the ins and outs of a paint shop and their talented work, but thanks to our unplanned omission, our plans have to be extended by a month. We really thought we were ready: The old paint was, if not in primer in most places, scuffed to a dull sheen on the rest of the car; the interior was gutted and clean; the wheel wells primered; the pans resurfaced; and the car was in a general state of readiness. Or so we thought.

Now that we have the major bodywork out of the way (well, it was minor in the vast scheme of projects, but major to this car), we can focus our energies on getting the car painted. Rather, we can focus on getting the car ready to be painted.

So far, on this project we have concentrated on thing specific to Super Beetles, but the last part and this part of the series can be used on most any Volkswagen, even Buses and Ghias. Even though the car changes, the principle is same. This month we will tackle the ins and outs of bodywork, specifically bodywork in your own driveway or garage. It is a lot easier than you think, and the next time you collect a dent or a deep scratch in your car, you'll feel slightly more confident to remove and repair it without writing a fat check to your local body shop.

It's 32 years old and pretty damn impervious to most things you can throw at it. Of course, that's why it's there, to protect the undercarriage of the car from the elements, weather, road debris and anything the world can throw at it. In addition, undercoating acts as a noise deadener, supressing sound waves before they can travel through the metal of the fender, vibrate through the quarter panels and into the cockpit. So, it's pretty important stuff to have, and if it's missing, you'll notice it the first time you head down the road.

The last time we showed you the progress on our Super Project '71, the nose was up in the air and all of the stopping power was getting a good going through. We've concentrated most of the first few segments on the suspension and brakes, as it is an important step before tackling the rest of the car. Of course, like the most of you, we can't afford nor do we have the time for a 100-point pan-off restoration that will convert this car to 110 percent better than original. Our goals are simple: return this Super Beetle to the road so it is safe to drive, nice to look at and a good platform on which to showcase future Super Beetle developments. We won't win any awards with it, but in the end, it will be a quality job well done.

A lot has to happen when you step on the brake pedal in order for your car to come to a safe stop. Levers, pneumatic pressure, cables, cylinders, springs and friction all play critical rolls in the process, and we place a lot of blind faith in this system, considering how important it is. Braking is indeed a life-or-death science and should be treated as such, that's why brake fade, ever-increasing pedal travel, dragging brakes or ones that lock up while traveling are serious symptoms of a faulty system. If you have any of these problems, it is time for an overhaul.

What is the first thing you noticed when you pulled apart your suspension? Did the rubber tear away and crumble into a hundred pieces? Are you wondering how long your suspension would have lasted if you had kept driving under these conditions? If you're doing a car with safety and longevity in mind (over Concourse-correct restoration, of course), the only pieces on your VW that should remain rubber are the tires (and even they aren't real rubber anymore) and the windshield wiper blades. Bushings for control arms, strut towers, body mounts, trans mounts, sway bars and shocks should be updated to urethane and BUGPACK's distributors are the places to get them.

There are plenty of things that can go wrong with a car, especially those as old as an aircooled Volkswagen. Of those things, rust is the most feared, and people spend countless dollars fighting it. Some would rather crunch a fender than have to do rust repair, but if you've set your mind on restoring/rebuilding your car, then there's nothing you can do but to work through it.

Once everything has been removed from the front end of your Super, it'll look pretty barren, as there's nothing under there but the frame head and the body. Be sure that you can keep your Super up on blocks while you secure the correct parts you'll need.