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Project Budget Beater Part VAssembling the Short Block The "Innards" of a 1914 cc Engine From the March, 2009 issue of VW Trends By VW Trends Staff Photography by VW Trends Staff
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When we last left the "Budget Beater" 1914 cc engine, all the internal parts were machined and cleaned. Now, we get ready to assemble the short block; that is, put the engine case together with the connecting rods hanging out the cylinder holes. Once again we travel to VW Paradise, in San Marcos, Calif., where resident engine builder Jason Lauffer goes to work. Now, as a word of caution--this article will simply show some of the more important steps taken when assembling an aircooled engine. There are a number of books out there that go into great detail about how to correctly assemble a VW engine, and there isn't enough space in the magazine to get into all of it. I would suggest the Bentley manual, the old "Rebuild you Air Cooled VW" book by Tom Wilson (available from H.P. Books,), and for those of you that have joined the 21st Century and have a VCR, I would also suggest a copy of BugMeVideo's engine rebuild tape. If you still don't feel confident, you can always call Jason at VW Paradise; they ship engines all over the U.S. One good thing about a 1914cc engine is that it is really no more than a big stocker, as there is no clearancing needed for a stoker crank. Once the case is machined, and cut open for the 94mm pistons and cylinders, it goes together just like a 40 horse, a 1300- or 1600cc engine. Good power can be had from one of these "big stockers," if all the details are thought out beforehand and the engine is built correctly. Since we upped the displacement, we decided to add a little more horsepower in the way of a free, used, Engle 110 cam, added to the reliability by the use of the Gene Berg 69mm counterweighted crank and rods, and tapping the case for full-flow oiling. The first thing Jason does is to make sure he has all the parts he will need. Main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings and cam plug, gasket set, dowel pins for the main bearings and oil pump, along with the crankshaft, connecting rods and cam and lifters and gears and oil slinger. Then, everything is cleaned, cleaned, cleaned. After he is done cleaning and drying all the parts, he does it again. I cannot stress enough, how important cleanliness is. If you even think it's dirty, or could have a piece of lint or dirt in it or on it, clean it again. There is the "Budget Beater," in short block form. Figuring that we had a total of $640 in the engine before we started, and we spent an additional $113.38 on the gasket set, main, rod and cam bearings, 30mm oil pump, and full-flow cover, and rear main seal. The total so far, is $753.38. Not too bad for an engine that was built primarily from used parts! As previously stated, this is not a step by step how-to on assembling your VW short block. That has been covered by us many, many times in the past, and there are books and video's available that address this subject far better than we could in magazine format. Next, we will install the pistons and cylinders, set the compression to the desired level, install the heads, set the rocker arm geometry, and the long block will be complete. Stay tuned. SOURCE
| | VW Paradise 1510 Grand Avenue San Marcos, CA 92069 (760) 744-9140 www.vwparadise.com Gene Berg Enterprises 1725 North Lime Street Orange, CA (714) 998-7500 www.geneberg.com |  As I said, cleanliness is...  As I said, cleanliness is of tantamount importance. Jason cleans everything with solvent, soap and water, dries everything and then does it again until he is happy with everything being remorselessly clean. One piece of dirt or lint here can spell disaster later on.  The crankshaft is hung from...  The crankshaft is hung from a fixture that Jason made; it's simply an old flywheel gland nut, so the crank can be screwed onto the fixture.  Next, the rods are hung with...  Next, the rods are hung with the new bearings and torqued to spec. Jason checks the side clearance of the rods at this time, as well.  Now comes the main bearings,...  Now comes the main bearings, the cam gear, distributor drive gear and oil slinger for the crank pulley.  The crank is dropped into...  The crank is dropped into the main bearing saddles at this time.  The lifters are lubed and...  The lifters are lubed and set into the bores in the case. Notice that the main bearings are already in place.  The crankshaft and rod assembly...  The crankshaft and rod assembly is now test-fit into the case.  The cam is set in next, with...  The cam is set in next, with the two indented dots on the crank gear matching with the one indented dot on the cam gear.  Jason has already plugged...  Jason has already plugged the 30mm oil pump for use with a full-flow oiling system, so it will be ready when he is.  You would be surprised how...  You would be surprised how many people have forgotten to put this cam plug in, bolted up the case halves, assembled and started the engine, and found a nasty oil leak, that requires a complete teardown of the engine to fix.  With the lifters on the other...  With the lifters on the other case half being held in by special ( and easily available) lifter holding clips, and some sealant on the case halves, Jason puts the two halves together, followed by a sequential torquing of the big and little case half nuts, followed by a check for free rotation of the crankshaft. Just as expected with the machine work by VW Paradise, everything fits perfectly.  Next comes the flywheel, and...  Next comes the flywheel, and the checking/setting of the end play. Jason has done this so many times, he gets it right on the 0.004 mark the first time. Specs for end play are between 0.003in. and 0.005in., using three end play shims, and no rear main seal at the time.  Now the main seal is lubed,...  Now the main seal is lubed, and installed, followed by the flywheel, and a torqueing on the gland nut.  Now the oil pump, with some...  Now the oil pump, with some sealant and the appropriate gaskets, is installed, and torqued down.  The small bolts surrounding...  The small bolts surrounding the oil pump are now tightened.  The large case halve nuts...  The large case halve nuts and studs are now checked again, and everything is checked for free rotation.  The flywheel is now attached,...  The flywheel is now attached, with the appropriate shims for end play, and the rear main seal. Jason torques the 36mm gland nut to specifications.  The oil strainer, followed...  The oil strainer, followed by the sump plate, comes next.  The oil pressure relief valve...  The oil pressure relief valve is dropped in next, followed by the spring, then the screw, with a new copper washer. If you are using a dual relief case, as we are, you will have two of these pistons and springs to install.  Here we are with a complete...  Here we are with a complete short block assembled by one of the best in the business.
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