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Project Budget Beater Part VI
Assembling the Top End Piston, Cylinder and Head Assembly
March, 2009
By VW Trends Staff
Photography by VW Trends Staff
When we last left the Project: Budget Beater, it was at VW Paradise, in San Marcos, Calif., where engine builder Jason Lauffer had assembled the "Short Block;" that is, the engine cases were together, and the connecting rods were hanging out of the holes for the pistons and cylinders. Now, we finish up the engine to the "Long Block" stage, which is valve cover to valve cover, ready for the induction, cooling, charging, ignition,and exhaust system to be bolted on, engine installed in the 1961 Single Cab and driven away. I am still trying to build this engine on a budget, but, alas, like with so many other things, some unforeseen problems and needed parts and wanted upgrades have pushed the budget part a little beyond the intended limit. It can be done for cheaper than I have done it, but I suggest that you look very carefully at an engine that is supposed to have all of these parts and upgrades, that someone wants to sell you for less money. Sure, I could have gone with a little less expensive head, and I suppose the solid rocker arm shafts aren't really a necessity, and you don't really have to full-flow the case, and run an external oil cooler. I did all of these things because I wanted both power and reliability from my engine. I guess the old saying applies: "Speed (and power) costs money, so how fast do you want it?" Let's watch as Jason slips the 94mm pistons and cylinders on, sets the deck height, checks and sets the compression, and sets the rocker arm geometry. Once again, this is not meant to be a step-by-step, word-for-word, engine buildup. We are just going to hit the high points of the buildup. If you want to tackle this yourself, get a good book such as the Tom Wilson-authored book I spoke about in the last installment or the Bentley Book, or both, and maybe the BugMeVideo video that showcases an engine rebuild. With the proper tools, and time, (and no camera that has be in the way every step of the way), you can do this yourself, at home. Of course, VW Paradise ships engines all over the world, if you still don't want to try it yourself....  Here is what we left at VW...  Here is what we left at VW Paradise last time; the completed "short block" with the rods hanging out of the cylinder holes. |  Jason locates some 8mm cylinder...  Jason locates some 8mm cylinder and head studs, checks them for straightness, and cleans them up for use in our Project: Budget Beater. |  Because I am still trying...  Because I am still trying to assemble this 1914cc engine on a very tight budget, I did some shopping and found that Elliot at BLIMP had the cheapest prices on 94mm pistons and cylinders. Sure, it was just a little under the norm, but when every penny counts, you go for the most inexpensive part you can (and still get good quality, of course). |  With a little Loctite pipe...  With a little Loctite pipe sealing compound (with teflon) on the studs, Jason threads them into the holes. |  Jason has a special tool that...  Jason has a special tool that installs the head studs with ease. You can also double-nut them and get them in that way, but Jason does this so often, the right tool saves him a lot of time in the long run. |  |  Jason balances each and every...  Jason balances each and every piston that comes through the shop. Whether it is a stock 1600cc rebuild, or a monster 2300cc engine Jason shows us where you can take metal out of the piston to get them all weighing the same, without losing any strength. You find the lightest piston in the batch and lighten all the heavier ones to match it. |  Jason found out that all of...  Jason found out that all of our pistons were right on the money, at 488.5 grams so no material needed to be removed. |  Jason slides the pistons over...  Jason slides the pistons over the connecting rods, installs the piston pin through the piston and connecting rod and then installs the supplied circlips on each side of the piston to keep the piston pin from moving. |  The arrow on the top of the...  The arrow on the top of the piston always faces to the front of the engine, towards the flywheel. It isn't necessary to stagger the piston rings just yet, as the cylinder will be installed, and then it will be coming right back off. |  |  A ring compressor is used...  A ring compressor is used to get the barrel down onto the engine case. It isn't sealed yet, because there are a few things we need to do now. |  With the barrel seated against...  With the barrel seated against the case and the piston at Top Dead Center, Jason measures the deck height--how much room between the top of the piston and top of the cylinder--there is. |  |  |  Jason had also cced the heads...  Jason had also cced the heads by using a graduated burette to find out exactly how many ccs of fluid it took to completely fill the combustion chamber, with a plastic plate of the proper diameter for the bore size set into the head. Our heads measured an even 64cc on each chamber. Jason did some quick calculations, and found that, with our 0.085 deck height and 64cc combustion chambers without any barrel spacers between the case and the cylinder, e would have a compression ratio of 7.05-to-1. Of course, you need to have a spark plug screwed into the combustion chamber, to avoid a liquid mess at the bottom of your work table. |  |  |  Using a bead of clear silicone...  Using a bead of clear silicone around the base of the cylinder, the ring compressor is again called into use, and the barrel is set down onto the engine case. The rings have been staggered, 120 degrees apart, to aid in compression sealing, as well. |  Next, the pushrod tube seals...  Next, the pushrod tube seals are covered with some sealant, and with them in place on the engine case, the head is set on over them. |  See that little black air...  See that little black air deflector between the pushrod tubes and the cylinder? Forget to put it in, and you are virtually assured of an engine that will overheat, and the only remedy is to pull the head back off and install them. |  Jason now torques the head...  Jason now torques the head to spec, starting in the middle and working his way out to the outside studs. |  Once both heads are on and...  Once both heads are on and torqued down Jason does a leak-down test on all cylinders to make sure that the rings and valves are seating and sealing properly. Of course, true to Jason's expertise, they are all well within spec. |  Another "non-budget" item...  Another "non-budget" item we elected to use, were these chromoly pushrods. They have to be cut to length, so let's watch as Jason makes quick work out of it. |  We went over budget again,...  We went over budget again, and decided to use solid rocker arm shafts for the extra measure of safety they provide, especially on an engine that has higher-revving capabilities than a stock unit. Once Jason had them shimmed correctly and assembled, we were ready to proceed with setting up the rocker arm geometry. |  Jason has an adjustable pushrod,...  Jason has an adjustable pushrod, so we can get the correct length. Once we have it set, we can cut all the pushrods the same amount. |  Because we know the cam specs,...  Because we know the cam specs, we can set the pushrod length at half-lift on the cam. Notice how the adjuster is just a little off-center from the valve stem; that is so the valve will rotate on the valve seat. You also want to make sure that there is full contact at half-lift between the adjuster tip and the valve stem. |  To get this right, you may...  To get this right, you may have to use some rocker arm shims, between the rocker arm assembly, and the head. |  Now that Jason is happy with...  Now that Jason is happy with the rocker arm geometry, the rocker arm can be removed and the adjustable pushrod measured, so the chromoly pushrods can be cut to length. |  |  Jason rigs up a jig so that...  Jason rigs up a jig so that all the pushrods can be cut exactly the same length. Once he is done with that, a trip to the belt sander relieves the pushrods of any sharp edges. |  Jason also uses a cone-shaped...  Jason also uses a cone-shaped file to clean out the inside of the cut edge, so the tip will fit in "just right." |  Jason now uses a used lifter...  Jason now uses a used lifter to hold the pushrod, places the tip on the top and uses another used lifter to drive the tip in. |  |  Now the pushrods are slipped...  Now the pushrods are slipped into place and the rocker arms set on the stud followed by the valve adjusting screws. |  A good old valve adjustment...  A good old valve adjustment is now done. Although with the chromoly pushrods, you can set the valve lash at what is called a "loose zero," that is, no clearance, but you can still spin the pushrod, we gave everything a few thousandths clearance, for break-in. Later, when everything has worn in, we can reduce the valve lash to the "loose zero." |  Using an old pushrod, Jason...  Using an old pushrod, Jason slides the washer down into the distributor drive hole, followed by the spring. |  See that shiny washer, down...  See that shiny washer, down inside the hole? Lose it down in the case, and you will most likely have to split the case apart to retrieve it, so don't lose it ! |  Now, along with the spring,...  Now, along with the spring, the distributor drive itself goes in. Now is when it pays to stay in practice; Jason got it indexed right the first time. |  | | |
Here it is, our completed 1914cc longblock, ready for ignition, cooling, intake, exhaust, charging, and clutch systems, and we are done! Once again, this not meant to be a step-by-step how to, as we have covered that many, many times before, and there are books and videos out there that go into much greater detail than we can here. But, as far as cost goes, when we last left the Project: Budget beater 1914 cc engine in short block form, we had a total of $753.38 invested. Now, if we add the $163.00 for the pistons and cylinders, the $49.95 for the solid rocker shafts, and the $42.95 for the chromoly pushrods, we end up with a total of $1,009.28. I was over budget by just $9.28, not too bad at all ! Just remember, there were some items in this buildup that didn't really have to go in there; I just wanted the safety and reliability of the full-flow system, the solid rocker shafts, and the chromoly pushrods. Also, knowing that a cylinder head can make or break you in the horsepower and torque game, I went with the ported and polished heads. Now, comes the hardest part- leaving the engine sitting on the shelf, while the rest of the single cab is attended to, with a transaxle change, and some body and paint work. Thanks to Jason at VW Paradise for letting me get in the way, and taking up valuable time, for this rebuild. Also, I would like to extend my appreciation to Clyde Berg, of Gene Berg Enterprises, for making sure my crank and rods were still Berg quality, Elliott at BLIMP for the pistons and cylinders, and the speedy shipping, and to Fred Simpson of Performance Technology, for holding on to those used heads for so long, knowing that some financially-challenged VW head would come in and want a set of good, but cheap, heads. I owe all of you a ride in the single cab when it's done. SOURCE
| | VW Paradise 1510 Grand Avenue San Marcos, CA 92069 (760) 744-9140 www.vwparadise.com Gene Berg Enterprises 1725 North Lime Street Orange, CA (714) 998-7500 www.geneberg.com Performance Technology 1631 Placentia, Unit "M" Anaheim, CA (714) 526-0533 www.racingheads.com BLIMP 9211 Valley View Street Cypress, CA, 90630 Order line: (714) 252-0120 Walk-In customers: (714) 252-0100 www.blimpvw.com |
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