Sit on It: Part 1 (cont.)

March, 2009

22-With the help of the plastic,... read full caption 22-With the help of the plastic, the covers slide over the foam easy enough, but make sure you've lined up that fourth pleat with the center of the seat frame. Some coaxing is necessary towards the end. Don't start tugging from the center of the seat vinyl, always pull from the sides at the piping and gather up as much as you can.	23-Remember, the material... read full caption 23-Remember, the material is just sewn there and it's not made of Superman's cape; it will tear. Try rubbing your hands down the front and sides of the seats and work the vinyl down evenly toward the bottom.	24-The two rods that we removed... read full caption 24-The two rods that we removed from the old seat covers must now be slid into the channels at the bottom of the seat covers, one for the front and one for the back. They are not long enough to go completely across so make sure they will span the spikes on either side.
25-Unlike it shows here, stretch... read full caption 25-Unlike it shows here, stretch the back over the spikes first, then pull the front down. We started with the middle spike to make sure that fourth pleat lined up properly.	26-To marry the backrest and... read full caption 26-To marry the backrest and bottom seat together again, we placed a rag over the backrest rail before pulling it over the bottom seat. Since it is such a tight fit, we didn't want the new seat bottoms to be scratched.	27-There you have it. Now,... read full caption 27-There you have it. Now, just follow these 27 steps one more time for the passenger seat and you'll be ready for the back seats.

Time in the Back Seat
The design of the backseats, in two separate parts, is to allow easy removal of the bottom seat and to make way for the back rest to fold down for more cargo area. The back seat bottom is a straight forward process of using hog rings, pressure and the draw string to install the cover, while the back seat rest is incorporated into the five-piece carpet kit for the rear package tray. It looks somewhat complicated, but if you take things slowly and always plan ahead, you won't have a problem.

28-Similar in method as the... read full caption 28-Similar in method as the front seat bottoms, cut out some sisel approximately three inches larger than the rear seat bottom frame and hog ring it down. We used about 10 rings all the way around.	29-Apply a coat of contact... read full caption 29-Apply a coat of contact cement to the sisel on one side, lay the padding down (make sure it is the correct one for the bottom, as they are similar--the bottom padding is more rounded without the cutout for the attachment posts the backrest has) then glue the other side.	30-Stretch the padding over... read full caption 30-Stretch the padding over the sides of the frame and the sisel. So it isn't lumpy, make sure the padding is pressed down evenly and firmly.
31-Start on one side and stretch... read full caption 31-Start on one side and stretch the seat cover over the frame, working the material toward the other side.	32-Grab in bunches as you... read full caption 32-Grab in bunches as you pull, while using the palm of your hand to work the vinyl. Again, it may not look big enough but, as you manipulate it, it will begin to stretch.	33-Flip the seat over and,... read full caption 33-Flip the seat over and, while you apply pressure to the seat rail, pull up on the seat covers so they start to stretch over the bottom of the frame. When you can, pull the vinyl over the spikes on one end first, then the other side.
34-Again, while pressing down... read full caption 34-Again, while pressing down on the frame (we found it easiest to do this while it was on the floor) pull the front and back pieces over the frame rails and hog ring them loosely, as you don't want to crimp the string that is sewn around the bottom of the cover. Each time you pull, make sure it is straight up so the seat won't look bunched up.	35-Tie the string off to the... read full caption 35-Tie the string off to the seat frame and then pull it taut. Get someone to help you press down on the seat frame while you pull on the string. It's only string, though, Hercules, so don't break it.	36-Moving onto the backseat... read full caption 36-Moving onto the backseat rest, cut a notch in the sisel so you can navigate the bottom corner around the seat frame attachment post. Other than that, the sisel should be about three inches larger than the frame's springs.
37-Similar to before, hog... read full caption 37-Similar to before, hog ring down the sisel with about 10 rings all the way around and cement the foam padding to the sisel.	38-Slipping the cover over... read full caption 38-Slipping the cover over the foam padding, make sure it is lined up properly. Take the long rod from the old seats and feed it into the channel at the bottom of the front of the seat cover.	39-It may take some finessing... read full caption 39-It may take some finessing to get it all the way through, but make sure it is centered on the half dozen spikes. Flip the seat over onto a clean surface.
40-Start at the top by pulling... read full caption 40-Start at the top by pulling the center of the seat cover over the center spike and work out, always keeping the cover smooth, straight and even spaced with the spikes so it doesn't bunch up.	41-To wrap the cover over... read full caption 41-To wrap the cover over the seat at that odd angle where the seat backs up against the wheel well takes a little patience. There are four spikes toward the top, and four along the bottom. Start with the closest spike to the top and work down toward the post. Once those are in place, move to the other set of spikes.	42-This part is tricky. Pull... read full caption 42-This part is tricky. Pull the bottom side part over the spikes first, smoothing and working the vinyl around the frame. Then, pull the front part over the same spikes. Do this on both sides and set the whole thing aside.

Now that you've finished with the seats, take a break for a month or so until we return with the second half of this story. Next month we will continue by adding the carpet padding kit, the carpet kit and the freshly covered seats and panels. If you have any questions regarding this article, please email Ryan Price at ryanp@mcmullenargus.com.

Eight Mistakes We Made That You Shouldn't

1. We didn't remove the metal seat frame covers carefully enough and broke all of the connection tabs, which they don't make anymore. To reattach them, we used 1/4in. hex nuts and 1/2in. bolts, which did the trick nicely. If you're looking for complete authenticity, retain those clips (See Photo 1).

2. We didn't pay attention to which direction the rear backrest was facing when we folded the vinyl over the spikes on the sides, so they're technically backwards. It should be front over back. However, in the car, the error is well hidden (See Photos 41 and 42).

3. We cut our hands on those spikes several times, so be careful. You don't want to get blood on your seats!

4. The front backrest fabric went on crooked because we didn't line it up properly before slipping in on. We had to readjust it several times to get it right.

5. We followed the one-page instructions that accompany the TMI kit which, to say the least, is a bit vague.

6. We forgot about the backrest release lever on '67-1/2 and later Beetles and padded and covered right over the holes. Make sure you cut away a small rectangular hole in the padding with a utility knife and a smaller slit in the upholstery for those levers.

7. The material on a front seat bottom wasn't pulled straight down toward the rail (instead slightly to the side), which is why there's a slight wave in the vinyl (See Photo 27).

8. We pulled too tightly on the string for the back seat bottom and broke it. Luckily, there was enough left to still perform its function.

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