Last time you saw our Super Project '71, it looked fairly complete. So much so, we probably could have thrown an engine in the back and headed down the street without many problems (of course, if you don't consider lack of brakes a problem). Every car has it share of troubles--yours and ours are no different in that respect--but all in all, it is a complete car with very few insurmountable evils that can be clearly seen. But remember, everything can be fixed; if you have any two of the following: time, money or know-how then it can be fixed. But since we're lacking money primarily, we've got to make this project relatively cost effective, so we're going to do some of the legwork ourselves. We will always be under the supervision of the VW professionals when it comes to the technical stuff, and thanks to this, you won't have to when it comes time to work on your Super. For now, let's have some fun gutting the car.
There's nothing easier than tearing a car apart, and nothing more fun. In fact, besides driving it away completed, it is one of my favorite steps of the restoration/buildup process because it provides a first-hand account of what lies ahead. As well, it can give you clues to what the car has gone through in its life and what will really need extra attention. Not to mention, tearing something apart can show you how it was put together, definitely worthwhile in the end. But for now, it's all a mystery, a faded car held together by habit, gravity and willpower. What hides behind that quarter panel? What strange wiring is tucked under the carpet? Why did my finger just punch through solid metal? Ugg, rust.
In this section of the series, we will begin by tearing apart the interior, removing everything from the inside of the car that isn't going to get painted, which is everything (except for the steering wheel for obvious reasons). As well, we will pull out the gas-powered optional heater in the trunk, the fuel tank, air ventilation system and the wiring. Since the engine's gone, we don't have to worry about much at that end of it, but we will need to tend to the exterior badges, taillights, bumpers and rubber seals, not to mention the windows and the headliner. All in all, since there's a lot of work to be done, plan on getting plenty dirty in the process.
A note about the teardown: It is best advised to save everything. Get a bunch of boxes, crates or shelves in your garage and start labeling parts. We used a few dozen freezer-style baggies and grouped like parts together so we knew what we had and where it came from. There were certain things we knew we would need to replace, such as the rear-view mirror and the dash pad because they were both virtually destroyed upon removal, but they still earned a place on the shelf. It is better to have the old part handy while looking for a replacement (if necessary) rather than not have anything to go by during your search. As well, there are some things on a Super Beetle, for example, the steering column universal joint boots, that are no longer available, and cleaning up dirty, slightly damaged ones is better than not having any at all.
Another thing: Take ample notes and take pictures. It can get complicated sometimes, especially when you're putting everything back and you forgot where one of the half-dozen air vent hoses goes. Draw diagrams if that's your thing. For me, the pictures will be a handy reminder three or four months from now, and plus, you can drive out guests that have overstayed their welcome with a detailed slide show of the buildup. "And here is me unbolting the idler arm bracket..." Zzzzz.
Okay, easy stuff first. Get out a utility knife and cut away the rubber around the windows and push them free from their hold. Take your time with the windshield as it is fairly brittle and can easily break. You should be able to push out the quarter windows fairly easily, and the rear window can almost be kicked out, it's that solid. Once those are stored in a safe place, slash at the headliner until it falls out in dirty discarded strips of material. It's fun...and yes, you probably shouldn't be breathing all of that dust and the cloud horsehair fibers that's billowing around you. Get a mask and protect your lungs. Save the five metal bows for later, as you'll need them.
We started by rolling the...
We started by rolling the car out into the driveway for ventilation, some sunshine and ample light to see by. You can see that our Craftsman tool chest is handy, as is a shop vac, sander and various tools any garage should have. It's time for the fun.
Window removal is easy if...
Window removal is easy if you take your time and be gentle, after all, it is just glass. Peeling up the aluminum trim exposes a nice channel to run a utility knife through, cutting away enough rubber to free the window. Careful, the front window is always brittle and easily breakable.
Removing the door panels requires...
Removing the door panels requires that first, the window crank and door latch both be removed. Pry the plastic trim off of the window crank and the plastic finger plate out of the door latch. Since these screws are both protected by Loctite(R), you'll hear a small snap before they loosen.
We found this scrap of material...
We found this scrap of material hiding behind the door panel. It was used between the door latch tether and the door frame to minimize rattling. Perhaps it is a piece of the car's history.
Once the handle and crank...
Once the handle and crank are removed, use something flat (a plastic kitchen spatula for example) to pop the 20-odd tabs that hold the door panel in place. On 1973 and later, the armrest is bolted to the door frame and has to be removed, but before this ('72 and earlier) it simply lifts up. The rear quarter panels come out the same way, but then make sure to remove the flip-out ashtray (if yours is equipped with one).
These are the seatbelt attachment...
These are the seatbelt attachment and the rear seatback swivel point bolts. They both are a 17mm and, once removed, free the seatbelts and the rear seatback. Don't lose the seatbelt bolts, as replacements are difficult to find.
Behind the driver's side rear...
Behind the driver's side rear quarter panel we discovered our second problem. Unbeknownst to me, the car was apparently struck hard in the rear quarter panel during prior ownership. This makes for accident number two, and though the outside looks smooth (I hope there's no bondo), the inside is as wavy as can be. This also explains why the driver's door showed signs of a repaint (paint on top of the plastic). Add this to our "fix-it" list.
Two Philips head screws need...
Two Philips head screws need to be undone to free the footwell vents and subsequently the threshold carpet.
A prior owner used a lavish...
A prior owner used a lavish amount of glue to hold the carpet kit into place, as can be seen here. You haven't experienced tedious, mundane, hellish work until you've contorted your body under the dash of a VW and scraped at 20-year-old fabric glue. But, it has to be done.
The threshold pieces of the...
The threshold pieces of the carpet come up easily by lifting them from a small groove that grips them from under the rubber strip.
With the rear seat removed,...
With the rear seat removed, we got a good look at the carpet kit that was still in the back. Note it is a different color than the front. Attention to detail was obviously not the previous owner's forte.
And under the carpet was this...
And under the carpet was this scary mess. Good God, what work to do!
The sound deadening material...
The sound deadening material on the vertical portion of the rear package tray was difficult to remove, but sand paper and a wire brush helped. Remember to cover any exposed bare metal with a primer before leaving them too long.
Let's just call this the "before"...
Let's just call this the "before" shot and leave it at that. You can see our anguish in showing you this, but the odds are good that you'll soon sympathize with us after you look under your rear carpet. Hey, it could be worse. The "after" shot is coming in a couple of months.