Once everything has been removed from the front end of your Super, it'll look pretty barren, as there's nothing under there but the frame head and the body. Be sure that you can keep your Super up on blocks while you secure the correct parts you'll need.
The main feature of the front suspension is the MacPhearson strut towers, of course. Since springs are easy to replace (and should be replaced in pairs), we decided to go with Top Line's Sport Spring suspension because it will allow for a stiffer ride while giving the Super's front end a much-needed lowering (by about an inch). Certain things need to be replaced, such as the tie rod ends, all of the bushings, the steering damper and the steering box, as it was determined to be faulty.
Once things are all completely apart, now is the time to check all of the components for wear and damage. Start with the steering knuckle, either with the drum backing still attached or not, it doesn't matter. If you've got a micrometer or vernier calipers, measure the diameter of the outer tapered-roller bearing seat (the smooth area behind the threaded portion of the axle stub). It should be between 17.45 and 17.46mm. Measure the diameter of the inner tapered-roller bearing seat. It should be 28.99 to 29.00mm. The diameter of the grease seat seal should be 40.00 to 40.25mm. There should be no distortion of the axle stub, and if there is, you might want to replace it.
It's important to make sure the control arms and center tie rod are straight and free of cracks and unusual wear. Since they are designed in such a way that the replaceable bushings take the brunt of the wear, it is pretty difficult to damage a control arm, unless the car was involved in an accident of sorts. If that is the case, you would have trouble realigning the arms with the ball joints and tie rods and the damage would be obvious.
The tie rod ends will be replaced, but the actual rods needs to be cleaned and inspected for wear and cracks. remove the ends and roll the rods across a flat surface to check for warping. If they're not straight, replace them. Note: Do not confuse the tie rod ends that are used for front axles with those that are used with strut suspensions. The strut suspension's tie rod end has either a protrusion or an indentation to mark the difference.
The stabilizer bar should be straight and free of any damage. Since it usually gets hit first, sometimes there are small dents on the bar itself. Don't worry too much about these dents unless they affect the integrity of the bar itself. Clean it with a wire brush and repaint.
This is Top Line's Sport Spring...
This is Top Line's Sport Spring set made for Super Beetles from 1971 to '79. It is a stronger spring than stock, therefore offering a stiffer ride with a slightly lowered gait.
To disassemble the strut,...
To disassemble the strut, you must have a proper spring compression tool, otherwise, by using a makeshift compression tool, you could cause severe injury. Once the spring is secure, pry off the thrust bearing dust cover and remove the self-locking nut from the shock absorber piston rod.
Underneath the rod nut will...
Underneath the rod nut will be the upper bearing plate, the spring seat, the spring and the dust cover. Remove all of these things and remember their order as you disassemble.
The piston inside the strut...
The piston inside the strut needs to be removed and replaced. Underneath is a dust cover seat and a locking ring (that you must reuse). The rubber bump stop is damaged here and must be replaced.
With everything removed, the...
With everything removed, the towers can be cleaned and repainted black. Make sure to empty out the strut tube of any debris or part fragments.
To reassemble, insert the...
To reassemble, insert the new shock absorber into the strut tube, the centering cap, the locking nut. Be sure that the spring is properly seated in both spring plates at either end, and unlike the stock spring, the Sport Spring doesn't have a top or a bottom, either end will fit. Tighten the rod nut securely and replace the dust cover. Remove the spring compression tool carefully.
This is the ball joint (upside-down)....
This is the ball joint (upside-down). Since we didn't want to bother with checking whether the ball joint had any play or not (since it is 30-years old), we felt it was safer just to replace it outright.
The ball joint attaches to...
The ball joint attaches to the bottom of the strut tower via the three original bolts. It is supported by the control arms and moved with the tie rods.
The three original 14mm bolts...
The three original 14mm bolts also sandwich the steering knuckle between the ball joint and the tower. At this time it is a good idea to install the whole unit together. It makes it easier in the long run.
Let the unit hang from the...
Let the unit hang from the three upper mounting bolts for now. Torque the 15mm bolts to 14ft.-lbs.
For the control arms, these...
For the control arms, these are the eccentric adjusting bolts and washers. Note the washers' holes are slightly off-center to allow for the adjustment of the camber. Turning the bolt one direction or another pushes the control arm out or pulls it in depending on the desired angle of the wheel.
When you buy new bushings...
When you buy new bushings for the control arm and the stabilizer bar, it comes with lubrication. Apply it to the inside of the mounting point and the circumference of the urethane bushing.
Tap in the bushings using...
Tap in the bushings using a block of wood and a hammer, but if you've got a press, use that instead.
Torque the castellated nut...
Torque the castellated nut to 22ft.-lbs. of pressure and install a new cotter pin. Once everything is attached, you'll have to adjust the camber and then retorque this nut to 29ft.-lbs.
On the other end, thread the...
On the other end, thread the ball joint through the control arm and tighten the nut to 29ft.-lbs. Make sure the ball joint bolt and nut are free of any debris or grease.
The eccentric bolts should...
The eccentric bolts should be at opposite positions on either side of the frame head to insure matching camber on both wheels. Have it professionally adjusted if you are unsure.
Before installing the sway...
Before installing the sway bar, liberally grease the mounting point on the lower end of the control arm with the supplied grease.
Press the urethane bushing...
Press the urethane bushing onto both sides of the sway bar. Cover the bushing with grease.
Sandwich the control arm with...
Sandwich the control arm with other half of the bushing, the two washers and the nut. Torque it to 22ft.-lbs. of pressure and replace the cotter pins.
Line up the sway bar with...
Line up the sway bar with the front mounting points and lubricate the bar where the bushings will be located.
The mounting clamps attach...
The mounting clamps attach with two bolts and lock washers each and should be tightened with 14ft.-lbs. of torque for 1971-'73 cars and 29ft.-lbs. of torque for '74 and later.
This is the new shiny steering...
This is the new shiny steering box that will replace the worn out one behind it. You must transfer over the drop arm and universal joint shaft. One or two splines on the drop arm and the roller shaft of the steering box are wider and they must match to install properly.
You must press in the new...
You must press in the new idler arm bracket bushing and idler arm shaft. The shaft attaches to the idler arm, which connects to the center tie rod on the passenger side of the car.
Once the drop arm is attached...
Once the drop arm is attached to the roller shaft of the steering box (torqued to 72ft.-lbs.), it is important to peen the lower part of the nut until it meshes with the slots in the roller shaft.
The universal joint shaft...
The universal joint shaft fits snuggly over the steering column splines. The bolt aligns itself with the notch in the splines, and needs to be torqued to roughly 5ft.-lbs.The new steering damper is bolted to the frame head through an access hole in the trunk. The hydraulic portion attaches to the top of the drop arm in the mounting point closest to the steering box. Don't forget to replace the bushing at this point (and the sleeve if it is damaged).
The most time consuming part...
The most time consuming part of the whole job is getting the retaining ring to fit over the tie rod end boots. It takes patience and determination.
Once the center rod is attached...
Once the center rod is attached to the drop arm and the idler arm (on opposite sides of the car), the right and left tie rods can be attached with 22ft.-lbs. of torque. The left tie rod is longer than the right.
The outer tie rod ends attach...
The outer tie rod ends attach via a bolts to the steering knuckle. It is at these points you can adjust for toe.
Another angle of the inner...
Another angle of the inner tie rod ends connecting to the center tie rod.
Checking for proper toe-in...
Checking for proper toe-in can be done simply with a tape measure and a friend. Strut front suspension cars are designed to operate with a small amount of toe-in. Measure the distance between two points on the tires, roll the car forward until those two points are in the back and make the same measurement again. The difference at the rear should be less than 5mm greater than the front measurement.