The last time we showed you the progress on our Super Project '71, the nose was up in the air and all of the stopping power was getting a good going through. We've concentrated most of the first few segments on the suspension and brakes, as it is an important step before tackling the rest of the car. Of course, like the most of you, we can't afford nor do we have the time for a 100-point pan-off restoration that will convert this car to 110 percent better than original. Our goals are simple: return this Super Beetle to the road so it is safe to drive, nice to look at and a good platform on which to showcase future Super Beetle developments. We won't win any awards with it, but in the end, it will be a quality job well done.
Onto the series. What we are going to accomplish in this part is relatively straightforward and easy provided you have the proper tools and a little know-how. However, if you've never done it before, expect it to take the better part of the day to accomplish, provided you take your time and make sure everything goes smoothly. Remember that we are working with suspension parts, therefore they are potentially dangerous if not well supported. What you'll need to do this are the regular wrenches and sockets one would find in a nicely-stocked garage, along with a floor jack, stands and a tensioner like the one you'll see in the story. They can be found at any tool store.
Each rear wheel is independently sprung by the means of equipment that's referred to as trailing spring plates, torsion bars and shocks. The rear suspension is centered around the use of torsion bars that absorb the shocks from the road. The function of the spring plate is support the rear road wheels and provide a pivot point for the torsion bars on which to absorb the bumps.
Underneath the torsion bar...
Underneath the torsion bar cover is a set of rubber bushings that, over time, wear out and cause rear sagging. We are going to replace these rubber bushings with much stronger and durable urethane.
Start by jacking up the rear...
Start by jacking up the rear of the car and blocking the front wheels so they don't have the chance to move.
This is the rusted mess of...
This is the rusted mess of the spring plate and the diagonal arm, and the focus of most of the day's work.
Remove both the top and bottom...
Remove both the top and bottom bolt for the shock absorber. We will discard the two shocks because they will be replaced.
Use a scribe or screwdriver...
Use a scribe or screwdriver and mark the position of the diagonal arm where it bolts to the spring plate (see arrow). This will give you a reference point to reattach the spring plate into the elongated holes. The holes are elongated so that you can adjust toe in or out for rear alignment.
Remove the four bolts that...
Remove the four bolts that are holding the diagonal arm to the spring plate.
Remove the four bolts that...
Remove the four bolts that secure the spring-plate hub flange and set it aside. You may need to tap the flange out with a mallet. Warning: The spring plate is resting on the lower stop and is under extreme load. Be careful that this doesn't slip off, as it can be very dangerous.
At this point, you can do...
At this point, you can do one of two things. Either pry the spring plate off the stop and lower it down slowly (like we did here), or use a tensioner and lift up the spring plate, force a screwdriver under the plate and lower it back down so it slides over the screwdriver. Be careful that the plate doesn't bind on the screwdriver.
With the spring plate off...
With the spring plate off the stop and unloaded (but still connected to the torsion bar, make another scribe for a point of reference and then pry off the cover.
Underneath is the outer bushing,...
Underneath is the outer bushing, the torsion bar and the inner bushing. It is a good idea to examine the torsion bar for any spline damage and signs of rusting. Replace it if you have any questions, but if not, make sure there are no spots of exposed metal that will eventually rust.
Place the new bushings into...
Place the new bushings into the torsion holes, and make sure you use plenty of the supplied grease.
With the tensioner, load the...
With the tensioner, load the spring plate by lifting it back up to the scribed mark and the lower stop.
Replace the hub cover and...
Replace the hub cover and torque to 80ft.lbs. of torque.
Lower the wheel assembly and...
Lower the wheel assembly and replace the bolts. Torque to 87ft.-lbs.
This is a nice overall shot...
This is a nice overall shot of the car's underneath, showing us that we've got a lot of cleaning still to do before the VW is considered finished.
Replacing the shocks is as...
Replacing the shocks is as easy as removing them. Tighten the nuts to 43ft.-lbs. of torque