Like an abandoned baby on...
Like an abandoned baby on our doorstep, this is what welcomed us bright and early last Monday morning. Of course we'll take it in and take care of it like one of our own, as this longblock has been on quite a journey.
Even though we're going to show you how to do it in a few months, building your own engine from a pile of parts--though completely possible for any first timer, of course isn't something to be taken lightly. There are specialized tools you'll need, a host of information to consider and a very long list of parts, parts for parts and a detailed schedule to maintain in order to do everything correctly. For a novice engine builder, the many boxes of parts that will arrive at your doorstep can be a bit overwhelming, especially if you're learning about what goes where for the first time. What we're going to show you today, however, is the easy alternative: Let someone else worry about all of the complicated insides, while you tackle assembling the ancillary items, like the carburetor, alternator, fan housing and engine tin. In the long run, you'll not only save yourself a bucket of money by not buying a turnkey engine, and instead, you'll learn that much more about what powers your Volkswagen.
To do this, we contacted The Real Source in Effingham, Ill., and ordered one of everything in the engine section of their catalog, including their "Factory Fresh" 1600cc longblock, straight from VW's original equipment supplier. This longblock comes complete from valve cover to valve cover, everything you'll need to get started on your engine. Best of all, the complicated parts of the engine have been built for you. Better than that is the parts are all brand new, not rebuilt. All you have to do is add the ancillary items such as fuel supply, carburetor, intake, cooling and exhaust. That, in part is what we are going to do this month.
For starters, since this could take a couple of days to put together, it is best to dedicate a section of your workshop and dedicate some funds for a engine stand. The Real Source can set you up with one (they have the floor model as well as the bench model), but ours came from EMPI. The tools you need are simple and found in the most basic of toolboxes: screw drivers and a handful of the usual metric sockets will do the job from start to finish. Since our engine arrives fresh from the factory, it (and some of the new parts from The Real Source) come with a dousing of Cosmoline, a nasty, sticky petrolatum used to protect the parts from rusting during shipping.
The first order of business is to get everything straightened out. Find out what you have and what you might still need. We discovered that none of the parts came with the required hardware, so we sent away to Totally Stainless in Gettysburg, Penn., for a host of the stainless steel fasteners they're famous for, specifically their engine and exhaust kits. As well, we wanted to make this engine look as good as it will run, so we packed up our 25-piece fan shroud kit and sent them off to our local powdercoater for some protection and we shipped out the exhaust pieces, heater boxes, intake pipes and even the alternator stand to get them ceramic coated.
It is because of these delays that we'll have to cut our story slightly shorter than we anticipated. But, in the world of car restorations and magazines, it happens, right? So, we'll take you as far as we can this month and then pick up the slack in the following issue; plus, this'll give you a month to get your longblock and several boxes of parts sent to you from The Real Source.
Conclusion:
True, there are more complicated things that you could do in the engine department and this is hardly a proceedure that's going to keep you up at night worrying about it. But certain things must be done in order for you to enjoy your ride, and this is one of them. Perhaps you're an old veteran and you know how to do this already, but if you're picking up a wrench for the first time and you're trying to save yourself a few bucks while learning the trade, this is for you. Engines are easy if you know what to do, but if you don't, it might as well be brain surgery. Next month, we'll tackle the rest of the buildup and see our labors to fruition.

Once in the office and up...

Once in the office and up on our EMPI engine stand, we started by cleaning off the Cosmoline and taking stock of our parts. The strange contraption bolted to the top of our block is linkage for duel carburetion.

This is our fan shroud kit...

This is our fan shroud kit after getting a nice treatment from our local powdercoater. Powdercoating not only looks nice but gives the metal a protective layer of "paint," keeping the tin from rusting and discoloring.

This is the collection of...

This is the collection of most of the major parts we'll be installing on this longblock. It may seem like a lot, but most of it is fairly straight forward.

Then again the pile underneath...

Then again the pile underneath the engine on the VWT office floor is an example of how not to organize your parts. Keeping everything straight and in order will help you know what you've got and what you're missing. For example, we had to locate another intake manifold gasket because we lost ours somewhere in this mess.

You'll notice on your longblock...

You'll notice on your longblock as well as ours that all of the major holes, such as this one for the distributor, have been covered to prevent debris or dust to enter the engine and cause some major damage. Good advice is to keep these holes covered until you need them. Nothing is more defeating than dropping a nut down the fuel pump hole.

There are three things you...

There are three things you must align when installing a distributor: the drive shaft slots, the line for Number One piston stamped on the body of the distributor and the position of the rotor. To do this, start by rotating the crank pulley so that Number One Piston is at top-dead-center. Slip the rubber O-ring on the distributor's body and place it in the hole so that the tangs on the housing mates with the slots on the drive shaft deep in the hole.

After the tangs match (they...

After the tangs match (they only can go one way), rotate the body so that the Number One Piston line is matched up with the rotor. Tighten the clamp (which doesn't come with the distributor by the way, so you'll have to find one) and you're set.

Moving to the doghouse cooler,...

Moving to the doghouse cooler, you may not have known this, but VW used four types if grommets for their oil coolers: Early Beetles and Buses; Type III to 1969; 1970 and later for all types, especially doghouse coolers for 1970-'79 Beetles and 1970-'71 Buses; and tapered grommets used to adapt new 10mm coolers with old 8mm cases (changed in 1970). These are installed without using any kind of sealer as not to clog the oil cooler.

Three 13mm nuts tighten down...

Three 13mm nuts tighten down the cooler mount to the case. It is a good idea to feel the mating surfaces for bumps and imperfections, as you'll want a smooth connection to prevent leaks.

It is tricky to keep the grommets...

It is tricky to keep the grommets in place while you attach the cooler to the mount, but with a couple of tries, you can persuade them to stay as you put the two bolts through their holes.

Use an 11mm socket and don't...

Use an 11mm socket and don't forget the lock washers, which are actually supplied by the manufacturer.

Next we turn to the pedestal....

Next we turn to the pedestal. Since ours is off getting ceramic coated, we found another one acting as a paperweight in our offices. It will do until ours comes back. Use a thin coat of a sealer (in our case Permatex) before placing down the louvered metal filter (which prevents blowback). The louvers should be down and facing the flywheel like shown.

Our trusty 13mm nuts, washers...

Our trusty 13mm nuts, washers and socket complete the installation.

Apply sealer to the case,...

Apply sealer to the case, then set down the lower gasket.

Add sealer to the underside...

Add sealer to the underside of the insulator block and place it on top of the gasket.

Apply some grease to the fuel...

Apply some grease to the fuel pump pushrod and then slide it into the insulator block with the pointed end down.

With some sealer on the bottom...

With some sealer on the bottom of the top gasket, put it into position and then add some sealer to the top of that gasket.

Finally a 13mm socket is used...

Finally a 13mm socket is used to tighten the fuel pump to the case. Since it can only go in one direction, you can't force it the other way.