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Building Up a Longblock with All-New Parts, Part One

Building Up a Longblock with All-New Parts, Part One

March, 2009
By Ryan Lee Price
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Like an abandoned baby on... 
   
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Like an abandoned baby on our doorstep, this is what welcomed us bright and early last Monday morning. Of course we'll take it in and take care of it like one of our own, as this longblock has been on quite a journey.
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Once in the office and up... 
   
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Once in the office and up on our EMPI engine stand, we started by cleaning off the Cosmoline and taking stock of our parts. The strange contraption bolted to the top of our block is linkage for duel carburetion.
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This is our fan shroud kit... 
   
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This is our fan shroud kit after getting a nice treatment from our local powdercoater. Powdercoating not only looks nice but gives the metal a protective layer of "paint," keeping the tin from rusting and discoloring.
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This is the collection of... 
   
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This is the collection of most of the major parts we'll be installing on this longblock. It may seem like a lot, but most of it is fairly straight forward.
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Then again the pile underneath... 
   
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Then again the pile underneath the engine on the VWT office floor is an example of how not to organize your parts. Keeping everything straight and in order will help you know what you've got and what you're missing. For example, we had to locate another intake manifold gasket because we lost ours somewhere in this mess.
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You'll notice on your longblock... 
   
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You'll notice on your longblock as well as ours that all of the major holes, such as this one for the distributor, have been covered to prevent debris or dust to enter the engine and cause some major damage. Good advice is to keep these holes covered until you need them. Nothing is more defeating than dropping a nut down the fuel pump hole.
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There are three things you... 
   
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There are three things you must align when installing a distributor: the drive shaft slots, the line for Number One piston stamped on the body of the distributor and the position of the rotor. To do this, start by rotating the crank pulley so that Number One Piston is at top-dead-center. Slip the rubber O-ring on the distributor's body and place it in the hole so that the tangs on the housing mates with the slots on the drive shaft deep in the hole.
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After the tangs match (they... 
   
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After the tangs match (they only can go one way), rotate the body so that the Number One Piston line is matched up with the rotor. Tighten the clamp (which doesn't come with the distributor by the way, so you'll have to find one) and you're set.
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Moving to the doghouse cooler,... 
   
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Moving to the doghouse cooler, you may not have known this, but VW used four types if grommets for their oil coolers: Early Beetles and Buses; Type III to 1969; 1970 and later for all types, especially doghouse coolers for 1970-'79 Beetles and 1970-'71 Buses; and tapered grommets used to adapt new 10mm coolers with old 8mm cases (changed in 1970). These are installed without using any kind of sealer as not to clog the oil cooler.
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Three 13mm nuts tighten down... 
   
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Three 13mm nuts tighten down the cooler mount to the case. It is a good idea to feel the mating surfaces for bumps and imperfections, as you'll want a smooth connection to prevent leaks.
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It is tricky to keep the grommets... 
   
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It is tricky to keep the grommets in place while you attach the cooler to the mount, but with a couple of tries, you can persuade them to stay as you put the two bolts through their holes.
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Use an 11mm socket and don't... 
   
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Use an 11mm socket and don't forget the lock washers, which are actually supplied by the manufacturer.
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Next we turn to the pedestal.... 
   
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Next we turn to the pedestal. Since ours is off getting ceramic coated, we found another one acting as a paperweight in our offices. It will do until ours comes back. Use a thin coat of a sealer (in our case Permatex) before placing down the louvered metal filter (which prevents blowback). The louvers should be down and facing the flywheel like shown.
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Our trusty 13mm nuts, washers... 
   
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Our trusty 13mm nuts, washers and socket complete the installation.
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Apply sealer to the case,... 
   
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Apply sealer to the case, then set down the lower gasket.
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Add sealer to the underside... 
   
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Add sealer to the underside of the insulator block and place it on top of the gasket.
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Apply some grease to the fuel... 
   
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Apply some grease to the fuel pump pushrod and then slide it into the insulator block with the pointed end down.
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With some sealer on the bottom... 
   
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With some sealer on the bottom of the top gasket, put it into position and then add some sealer to the top of that gasket.
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Finally a 13mm socket is used... 
   
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Finally a 13mm socket is used to tighten the fuel pump to the case. Since it can only go in one direction, you can't force it the other way.
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