As it stands, there's not...
As it stands, there's not much getting in the way of what we have to do today. The body and pan are only held together at a couple of dozen points. A point of caution is to make sure you use plenty of WD-40 to help break up any rust and corrosion that may have built up. Since the last time the pan and body on this car saw separate ways was when they were first joined at the factory, the bolts were fairly stubborn (and we broke three).
Finally, we're on the right road again, as our beloved Super Project '71 is safely in the hands of the trusted folks at Deuce Kustoms, a well respected auto restorer and customizer not only in the Volkswagen community (they just finished Clyde Berg's latest drag car) but also in the Hot Rod, custom trucks and classic car arenas. If you need it done, they can do it, and they can certainly handle a stock-color, no frills paint job on a mild resto Super Beetle.
But first, a little side job to do before we get to the actual color on metal parts. Since the guys at Deuce Kustoms are considered perfectionists, they would only shoot the paint if the body and pan parted ways. The side benefit is an excellent opportunity to show you the procedure on a Super Beetle, as there are some differences from previous years--namely the struts--that must be contended with.
To do this properly, you'll need a few different size wrenches, specifically the 13-, 14-, 15- and 17mm. As well, jack stands and a floor jack will help keep the pan from buckling once the strut towers have been unbolted, and don't plan to start this without eliciting the help of a couple of friends to help with the actual separation.
If you are working with a complete car, there are a few things you'll have to do first (that we don't show you here) in order to remove the body from the pan. Specifically, you'll have to remove the seats (front and back), the fuel tank, the cable from the back of the speedometer and the battery. Though you really don't have to remove the engine, but if you've got dual carbs, odds are good they're too big for the engine compartment to slip over them, so you'll have to remove them. If you do or not, don't forget to disconnect the wires to the starter and the accelerator and clutch cables. While you're back there, pull out the front engine tin so it won't hang up.
With all of that peripheral equipment out and set aside, the remaining steps are easy (and they don't have to be done in this order), and we had a naked pan and an empty body in as little as a half-hour. Enough talk. Get your tools and let's get started.
Conclusion:
Everyone reading this now has one less parking spot in their garage, and it wasn't too difficult. Next on the list of things to do is some last-minute bodywork, and we'll take this time to clean up the pan, order a new seal and hardware for when the two shall meet again. Until next month, stay Super.
There are a total of 18 bolts...
There are a total of 18 bolts along the pan's side channels. A 13mm socket will make quick work of them, but if you break one, you'll have to drill it out and rethread a new hole. A missing bolt at this point might later cause squeaks or leaks.
Remove the bolts on either...
Remove the bolts on either side of the car where the body and the rear shock absorber mount meet. This is a 17mm bolt.
There are four 13mm bolts...
There are four 13mm bolts that hold the body to the bottom of the front cross member.
Inside the trunk, underneath...
Inside the trunk, underneath the two rubber grommets near the back of the spare tire well are these two bolts that connect the body to the front axle.
There are two of these bolts...
There are two of these bolts that hold the front the body to the frame head. Of course they'll have to be removed.
You've seen this part before...
You've seen this part before when we install them a few issues back. These three 14mm bolts hold the top of the strut tower to the body. There is no need to compress the springs as the towers can be pulled aside in tact.
This is the universal joint...
This is the universal joint for the steering column. There are two ways to do this: Disconnect it at this point only, or pull it out completely. If you leave it in like we did, you may need help feeding it through the hole as the body is lifted up.
The passenger side brake line...
The passenger side brake line (where it clips to the body) can merely be unclipped and pulled aside, as there's enough slack in the line, but driver's side line must be completely disconnected. You'll need a cup to catch the brake fluid.
Underneath the car, disconnect...
Underneath the car, disconnect the brake wires that attach to the master cylinder, as well as the brake lines that lead to the reservoir.
The Super Beetle steering...
The Super Beetle steering wheel and upper column connects to underneath the dashboard via two 13mm bolts.
This is the only complication...
This is the only complication you'll need to tackle. The steering box and the idler arm bracket must both be unbolted from inside their respective front wheel wells. The steering box is especially tricky as it tends to hang up on the bodywork and must be coaxed from its spot while you lift the body. You may find it easier to separate the idler arm and the steering damper from the steering box and leave the box on the body.
Inside the car underneath...
Inside the car underneath where the backseat was, unbolt the four bolts that hold the rear portion of the body to the rear cross members.
These two 14mm bolts help...
These two 14mm bolts help hold the front of the body to the tunnel. Notice on the right that the body and pan is beginning to part at the front cross member?
To keep the front of the pan...
To keep the front of the pan from buckling because of the lack support by the front wheels and suspension struts, support the frame head with a jack stand.
As the body and pan were coming...
As the body and pan were coming apart, notice the tight fit the steering box must navigate in order to stay with the suspension. Some persuasion was necessary until we gave up and merely disconnected it from the suspension.
After we felt that all was...
After we felt that all was unbolted, we walked around the car and gave it a couple of test lifts, to make sure nothing was hanging up.
Before the body is finally...
Before the body is finally free, here is one last look at the Super. The wheels are awkwardly pulled apart, but don't worry as nothing can get damaged as long as you keep unnecessary weight off of the wheels.
This is were your friends...
This is were your friends come in handy. Gather around and lift.
Since the next stop for this...
Since the next stop for this car is some extra bodywork, it will be rolled around on this dolly for the time being.