Here's what we started with,...
Here's what we started with, a typical German ball-joint beam fresh out of a Beetle and ready for the Lummus treatment. Incidentally, they will only narrow German metal
If at any point in your restoration or buildup, you're interested in upgrading your wheels to something more than stock, you'll have to consider several factors in keeping the wheels under the fenders and from rubbing during a turn. To quote the Bentley Manual when it pertains to the front axle, "A change in any single element in the geometry necessarily leads to change in the whole system." This holds true to most anything you do to the front end, and by narrowing the beam to accommodate larger wheels and wider tires, you've altered the original intent of the design.
Like with anything, there's a good way to do this and there's a bad way. The good way is the hard way, cut the beam in the middle and weld it back together.
The best solution is to drop your beam off at Ron Lummus Racing in Anaheim, Calif., to have it narrowed. A word of warning: Because of the lackluster production standards on currently produced beams from other countries, Lummus only works on German beams and won't have anything to do with those from Brazil or Mexico. "The aftermarket beams are almost always crooked--because of the stamps they use and the way they are made--and if we cut a non-German beam and weld it back together, it's going to be even more crooked."
On the extreme end, it is possible to take up to four inches out of a ball-joint front beam without extensive work on the body so the shock towers will clear. On the converse, you can only narrow a king and link beam approximately two inches before the towers are flat on the fender wells. However, determining how much you'll want to narrow your beam depends on what kind of set up you're after. By providing your goals to Ron Lummus, your beam can be narrowed as much (or as little) as necessary. As well, another feature with the Lummus system are the lowering adjusters that allow an adjustment to the torsion leaves. This small adjustment is exaggerated by the time the angle is transferred to the spindles, allowing for a pre-determined selection of stances. Depending on the angle and position of the adjusters, the front end can be lowered a little or a lot.
We followed Ron and his crew around his shop one afternoon while he took us through the proper process they use to narrow a beam. This example is narrowed by four inches; however, the process is the same regardless of the amount narrowed. This process can be done at home, but we don't really recommend it.
 The first step is to break...  The first step is to break the beam down to its basic elements. Remove the mounting brackets (shown here) as well as the steering wheel lock stop. Pull out the torsion leaves, the outer trailing arm bushings (made from a flammable micarta) and grease seals from each beam. |  Once cut in half, the appropriate...  Once cut in half, the appropriate amount of material is removed from each side of the beam halves. Also shown are the sleeves that hold Lummus adjuster screws, the original mounting brackets, the steering bracket and the wheel lock stop. |  Since Ron does this so many...  Since Ron does this so many times in the course of any given week, he has constructed this handy jig to make sure all of the pieces go together smooth and straight. On the top torsion tube the sleeve and the adjuster screw has been laid out. |
 Once in place, all of the...  Once in place, all of the pieces are clamped down, ready for welding. |  Depending on the position...  Depending on the position of the adjustment screws, the angle is exaggerated by the time it is transferred to the spindles, allowing for a wide selection of stances, from barely off stock to in the weeds. |  The angle needed is precisely...  The angle needed is precisely measured for each adjuster. |
 Welding all of the pieces...  Welding all of the pieces together is done with a high-powered TIG welder to ensure a clean, hot weld. |  |  Next you'll have shorten the...  Next you'll have shorten the torsion leaves by removing from each end the amount equal to the amount the beam was narrowed. This is done simply with a radial saw. |
 Since the dimples that holds...  Since the dimples that holds the leaves in place inside the torsion tube was cut off, new ones had to be drilled. |  A variety of sandpaper grits...  A variety of sandpaper grits are used to smooth out the rough weld marks up and down the beam. |  After the beam has been smoothed,...  After the beam has been smoothed, it gets a bath of acetone to remove any residue and dirt. |
 A fresh coat of paint finishes...  A fresh coat of paint finishes up another beam at Ron Lummus Racing. |  |  Once installed in a car, the...  Once installed in a car, the four-inch-narrowed beam really hugs the inner fender wells while helping to draw in any positive wheel offset or distance gained by adding dropped spindles. |